Our work

Real jobs, real photos.

Every photo on this page is our own work — no stock images, no borrowed portfolios. A lot of it is mid-job rather than glossy afters, because the part that decides whether a plumbing job lasts is the bit that ends up behind the wall.

Flow & return pipe work

Heating pipe work re-run into the joists

The flow and return in this property had been added to over the years until it was a knot of old pipe strung under the floor, sagging between the joists and throttling the circulation.

We stripped the old runs out and re-piped the whole lot in copper, notched and clipped properly into the joists so the boards go back down flat and nothing rattles when the heating fires up. Insulated where it runs through the cold sections, and pressure-tested before anything was boxed back in.

To be straight with you: we do the pipe work, not the boiler. Anything that involves the gas side needs a Gas Safe engineer and we'll tell you that up front.

More about Flow & return pipe work
New copper flow and return pipe work clipped into floor joists above a brick cellar wall
New copper runs set into the joists — clipped, supported and level.
Copper heating pipe work running neatly between exposed timber joists
Straight runs with proper falls, so the boards sit flat on top.
Copper pipe work and fittings routed through joists in a cellar ceiling
Notched through the joists rather than slung underneath them.
Copper pipe work along a brick wall with bracket supports in place
Bracketed off the wall where it drops down — no unsupported spans.

Trace & access

Finding a hidden leak without wrecking the kitchen

Damp patch on a kitchen ceiling with nothing obvious above it. The temptation is to open the whole ceiling up and have a look. We'd rather not do that to your house.

Instead it's small, targeted openings — following the run and checking the joints one at a time until the actual source shows itself. Where a previous leak has already opened the ceiling up, we work through what's there rather than making new holes for the sake of it.

Leak fixed, pipe work checked either side of it, then the openings made good. The last photo is the same kitchen afterwards.

More about Leak detection
Repaired pipe joints with fittings visible through two neat access openings in a ceiling
Repaired and pressure-checked before anything got closed up.
Copper pipe run exposed behind a wall board while tracing a water leak
Following the run to check nothing else along it was going.
Finished grey kitchen with the ceiling made good after leak repair work
Same kitchen once the openings were made good.

Shower, radiator & taps

Shower screen, towel rail, garden tap and the pipe work for all of it

A bathroom job that turned into a proper list: shower valve and screen, a heated towel rail, new feeds to the basin, and an outside tap while we were at it.

All the first-fix pipe work was run before the tiler came in, so the valve, the rail tails and the niche all landed where they were supposed to. That's the bit worth paying attention to — get the pipe centres wrong at first fix and you're chasing tiles later.

Tested on full pressure before the walls closed, then again once the fittings went on.

More about Tap, shower & cylinder work
Tiled shower enclosure with green feature tiles and a glass screen fitted
Screen and valve in, tiles up, everything landed on centre.
Green feature tiled shower wall with timber frame and glass door
Feature wall with the shower feed hidden behind it.
Recessed tiled shower niche with green tiles beside a thermostatic shower valve
Niche and valve set out at first fix, not chased in after.
Close-up of a tiled shower niche and shower controls on grey tiles
Controls sat square to the tile joints.
Chrome heated towel rail fitted to a grey tiled bathroom wall
Heated towel rail on tails run in at first fix.

Bathroom removal & installation

Full bathroom strip-out, back to bare walls

Old suite out, floor up, walls back to something you can actually build on. Quadrant enclosure, toilet, basin and vanity unit all removed and taken away.

Strip-outs look brutal in photos and that's the honest version of the job. What matters is what's underneath: we cap everything off safely as it comes out, get eyes on the joists and the existing waste runs, and find the problems now rather than after the new suite is sitting on them.

Waste re-sited where the new layout needed it, then first-fix pipe work set out ready for the tiler.

More about Bathroom removal & installation
Existing quadrant shower enclosure and toilet before removal
Before — the old quadrant enclosure and suite.
Bathroom part way through strip-out with toilet and towel radiator still in place
Part way through. Suite comes out in order, capped as we go.
Bathroom stripped back to tiled walls and bare floor with pipe work exposed
Floor up, so we can see the joists and the existing waste.
Stripped bathroom wall with an access opening and exposed pipe work
Opened up where the feeds needed re-routing.
Toilet soil pipe connection exposed on a stripped bathroom floor
Soil connection exposed once the pan came out — this is where a layout change lives or dies.
Bare bathroom with capped pipe stubs ready for first fix pipe work
Capped stubs, ready for the new layout to be set out.

Kitchen appliances

Washing machine and dryer out, supply and waste capped off

Washing machine and tumble dryer disconnected and taken out of a utility, ready for the units to be refitted.

It sounds like a five-minute job and sometimes it is. Often it isn't — old appliance valves seize, the waste connection is on its last legs, and whoever plumbed it in originally has left you a surprise behind the machine. Both of these had corroded valves that got replaced rather than forced.

Supply valved off and capped, waste sealed so nothing smells, and the appliances taken away.

More about Kitchen appliance installation & removal
Washing machine and tumble dryer in place in a utility room before removal
Before — both appliances still plumbed in.
Washing machine and dryer pulled forward to access the supply and waste connections
Pulled forward to get at the valves and waste.
Bare utility wall showing appliance supply pipe work and waste connection after removal
What was hiding behind them.
Copper appliance supply pipe work and capped connections on a utility wall
Valves replaced, feeds capped, waste sealed off.

Kitchen appliances

Washing machine removed and the space made good

Single appliance removal in a kitchen — machine out, connections capped, space left clean and ready for whatever's going back in.

Second photo is the alcove afterwards. No dripping tail hanging out of the wall, no open waste, nothing for the next trade to have to sort out.

More about Kitchen appliance installation & removal
Washing machine plumbed in place in a kitchen before removal
Before — machine in place.
Empty kitchen alcove with wooden worktop after appliance removal and capping off
After — capped, sealed and swept out.

We're adding to this as we go — photos get taken on every job now, so this page keeps growing. If you want to see something specific before you book, ask and we'll send it over.

Ask us a question

Tell us what's wrong.

Seen something on this page like the job you need doing? Give us a ring or send a couple of photos over and we'll tell you what it'll cost.

Opening hours

Monday – Saturday
7am – 5pm
Out of hours
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Where we work

Wirral, Liverpool, Cheshire and the surrounding areas. Not sure if we reach you? Give us a call and we'll tell you straight away.

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Call now · 07359 095046